Holidays in Béarn: what to see, what to do, where to eat and sleep this summer in the heart of the Ossau Valley, in Laruns?
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If agro-pastoral activity has made Laruns and the Ossau valley rich for centuries, the extraction of iron and copper mines in the 17th century , then forestry under Louis XIV developed until the craze for thermal baths and the development of aristocratic tourism in the 19th century . The valley's economy was further transformed with the emergence of winter sports at the beginning of the 20th century and the creation of the ski resorts of Gourette and then Artouste. This was followed by the hydroelectric installations, still in operation today. Laruns has just over a thousand permanent residents, a population that obviously doubles in the summer due to its numerous activity options.
To doNature sports with Aventure Chlorophylle. Canyoning is a flagship activity in the Ossau Valley, but other mountain and whitewater activities are also offered by this office, which is staffed exclusively by independent, state-certified professionals. Choose from rafting, caving, climbing, mountain biking, and even mountaineering (via partner providers). You can try via cordata in the Hourat Gorges, via ferrata above the Siala Canyon, or even rock climbing, supervised by Aventure Chlorophylle instructors. Tel. 06 28 07 90 22
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Horseback riding around the Ossau. All summer long, the Chevaux du lac (Lake Horses) welcome young and old to Bious-Artigues for short rides of an hour or more. For the complete tour of the Ossau, allow six to seven hours of riding from pass to pass, with a few tricky sections to cross on foot. The Ossau tour on horseback allows you to enjoy the scenery much more than on foot, where you too often walk with your nose in your shoes. A truly wonderful adventure. From €24. Tel. 06 45 23 33 10 or 06 76 34 06 12
Bious Pagayous. Also at Lake Bious-Artigues, Bious Pagayous offers rentals of 12 four-seater canoes and one nine-seater canoe accessible to people with reduced mobility. Rentals are available for one- to two-hour trips on the water, offering a magnificent view of the Ossau River. Fred also offers guided outings to learn how to sail, during which he tells legends and true stories about the mountains. Group reservations: +33 6 40 33 08 10 or directly on site. One hour for one canoe for two people: €15.
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Transhumance in Laruns
A magnificent spectacle offered by the flocks of sheep leaving for the summer pastures for long weeks. As every year, at the beginning of July, the transhumance is celebrated in Laruns. The date is set by the pastoral commission a few days before the event, depending on the height of the grass in the summer pastures. This is called the "devette." Shepherds and flocks spend three months in the mountains in pastoral huts, which have been refurbished for cheesemaking. Information is available at the Laruns tourist office at 05 59 05 31 41.
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The hydroelectric heritage of the Ossau Valley. A route marked by explanatory panels, at nine sites in total, allows visitors to understand the importance of hydroelectricity in the valley. Each panel installed near the facilities tells the story of their construction, architecture, operation, and evolution. Not to mention the Little Train of Artouste, which transported men and materials to the construction site of the Artouste Lake dam. Today, it is the valley's most popular tourist attraction. Adults €28, children aged 4 to 12 €20 (free for children under 4). Information: +33 5 59 05 31 41
Jean-Luc Mongaugé's singing walks . Author, composer and performer, Jean-Luc Mongaugé invites tourists to get lost with him in the alleys of Laruns and the other villages of the valley. A discovery, all in song and poetry. Between old memories and small joys, the local boy sings about his past and his memories in Béarnais, his native language, which he ardently defends. He offers singing walks and free concerts throughout the valley all summer long. Information: 05 59 05 31 41
Where to sleep?The Guards' House. In Gabas , on the GR 10 route, five large, fully furnished and equipped accommodations are available for self-catering rental, by the night or for several days. Expect to pay €27.50 per night per person in a dormitory or four-person room. Other rates vary depending on the accommodation, the number of people, and the length of stay. On the ground floor, a pop-up grocery store, open from mid-May to September, allows you to stock up on supplies. Open all year round. 18, rue des Bergers – 07 85 57 52 71
Gîte du Cap de la Hont. A two-minute walk from Laruns Square, this spacious, high-end group accommodation is just far enough from the shops to provide a peaceful setting, with breathtaking mountain views. With its spacious interiors, exposed beams, and a blend of stone and wood, the style is modern and refined. Each room is spacious and has an en-suite bathroom. The gîte is rated 3 épis by Gîtes de France and has the Tourism & Disability label (€450 per night for 15 people). Breakfast is served to order. 34, rue du Bialé – 06 89 25 06 74
La Caverne. On the road to the Col du Pourtalet, just outside the village of Eaux-Chaudes, the Auberge La Caverne is both a hotel and a guesthouse. Ideally located for hiking trails, it offers ten spacious, newly renovated rooms, all equipped with a bathroom and TV (double room €82). They also have a sunny balcony overlooking the river. Four dormitories with 4, 5, and 8 bunk beds accommodate groups, who can benefit from a small, independent kitchen, a refrigerator, and a microwave (€21). The restaurant serves traditional cuisine made with local produce and offers sweet and savory snacks at the bar and on the terrace at any time of day. Aux Eaux-Chaudes. 05 59 05 34 40.
Where to eat?L'Embaradère. At the entrance to Laruns on the road leading to the village square, L'Embaradère is an institution, established forty years ago. Marie-Line Blandin, who took over the restaurant eight years ago, offers family cuisine and a lunchtime workers' menu for €14.50, as well as a menu of her specialties made with local produce. Reservations required. 13, avenue de la Gare – 05 59 05 41 88
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