Malaysia | Instagram devours Kuala Lumpur

Instagram has Kuala Lumpur in its grip. Even in the early hours of August, young Chinese women are queuing outside "TG's" on Tengkat Tong Shin – not for the food, but for a photo. The traditional roti canai breakfast with dal and curry sauces on the menu? Nobody cares. It's all about content, clicks, the perfect shot for social media. The digital invasion has long since swallowed up the small Malaysian restaurant.

For almost two years now, tourists, styled according to the latest influencer trends, have been flocking to "TG's" in Kuala Lumpur's Bukit Bintang district every day. Why? For a selfie with a wafer-thin, crispy, meter-long tissue dosa – the name for the stacked version of Indian flatbread – for TikTok and Instagram. The platforms have won.

“We’re on vacation and really wanted a photo with a tissue dosa and a coconut,” explains Dai, 22, from Beijing, while her friend Yun proudly holds her “tissue paper dosa” up to the camera. It comes with fresh green coconut – which has become the perfect accompaniment to the towering crunchy treat with chocolate or honey.

How social media devours everything

Restaurant manager Kamal still can't believe it. "This has been going on for almost two years," the 33-year-old says, shaking his head. "We've been serving Tissue Dosa for ages. But sometime after the pandemic, the photos and videos went viral on Chinese social media." And that was the end of the peace and quiet.

Everyone wants a selfie with a wafer-thin, crispy, meter-long tissue dosa.

"TG's" is a Nasi Kandar – in case anyone still cares about that amidst the internet craze. These shops specializing in Indian cuisine have always been a meeting place for all social classes. The name comes from Indian street vendors who used to sell curries from buckets with rice (nasi) on a shoulder pole (kandar) in Malaysia's port cities. Today, they offer buffets with curries, vegetables, meat and fish, naan bread from the tandoor oven, and of course, rice.

Malaysia beyond the clichés

Kuala Lumpur isn't as popular with Western tourists as Singapore or Bangkok. "Malaysia is Islamic," many say with that typically ignorant shudder. Sure, Malaysia has a Muslim majority, but the capital thrives on ethnic and religious diversity and a remarkably relaxed lifestyle. This diversity sizzles in the pots and woks of Malaysian Chinese, Indians, and Malays – before Instagram standardizes it all.

For over 20 years, "TG's" was equally popular with tourists and locals – thanks to its good food, fair prices, and friendly service. Now, the regulars from the neighborhood are out of luck. Gentrification is swallowing up the local culture.

“I used to eat at TG’s a lot after work. I can’t anymore,” says local resident Teng Chong, frustrated. “The place is always packed with Chinese girls. And if you do manage to get a table, everything takes forever.” Every dosa is freshly baked – which, because of the Instagram invasion, can take 40 to 60 minutes. This is also stated in English and Chinese on the red sign at the entrance.

Alternatives in the shadow of the hype

But nobody has to starve. In the small historic shophouses of Tengkat Tong Shin and the neighboring streets Jalan Alor and Changkat Bukit Bintang, restaurants, pubs and cafes still exist away from the digital mainstream – if you know where to look.

Jalan Alor, with its red lanterns, is already a tourist magnet for Chinese cuisine. Changkat Bukit Bintang offers Western food – pizza, steak and kidney pies, burritos, and suckling pig. Alcohol flows freely, while music blares from the open-air restaurants, following the motto: whoever plays the loudest wins.

Between the noise of Changkat Bukit Bintang and the chaos of Jalan Alor, Tengkat Tong Shin is almost an oasis – were it not for the lines of cars belonging to all those dosa enthusiasts who clog the streets in search of parking. Spicy, pungent aromas waft from the Bengali food stalls catering to Bangladeshi workers. At the "Kam Fatt" restaurant, the curry laksa is fantastic. Across from "TG's," a Chinese chef cooks Hokkien Mee – noodles stir-fried in a dark sauce – outdoors every evening. Here, too, patience is required: each portion is freshly prepared in a wok.

Fusion cuisine with a history

In the rustic "Muar," right next to "TG's," you'll find Baba Nonya cuisine. This ethnic group emerged over centuries from unions between Malay women and Chinese merchants. They've blended not only their genes but also their recipes. A special tip: chicken cooked in salted egg yolk with curry leaves. Or the author's favorite: shrimp and calamari rings with green petai beans in a spicy sambal sauce. If you do happen to make it to "TG's," be sure to try the Kadai chicken—cooked in coriander, cumin, garam masala, and dried red chilies. Superb. It doesn't always have to be a tissue dosa.