Discover the Popes' summer residence, ideal for a day trip from Rome
There is no denying that the life of a pope piques our curiosity. The face and public actions of the leader of the Catholic Church are known in the most remote corners of the world. His private life, however, is not brought to light. And rightly so: at the end of the day, the pontiff is also a human being. But those who wish to have a glimpse into the intimacy of a pope have come to the right place.
Located 25 kilometers from Rome, in a small lakeside commune, the Papal Palace of Castel Gandolfo served for centuries as the summer residence of the popes . Inaugurated in the 17th century by Urban VIII, the sumptuous palace was the chosen vacation spot for dozens of pontiffs, who usually came here during the warmer months of the year.
However, what was once accessible only to the Pope and his closest circle can now be seen up close with our own eyes. Since 2016, at the request of Pope Francis , the rooms where the Supreme Pontiff's private and daily life took place have been open as part of a museum complex .
The break with tradition echoed Francis’ legacy of simplicity, but what the next pope will do with the residence is still uncertain. Regardless of the decision, I can say with certainty that the small town of Castel Gandolfo is an ideal place to include it on a day trip from Rome . In addition to visiting the palace’s rooms and gardens, the surrounding area offers plenty of good food, wine, and history – after all, we are in Italy. Ciao!
Visit to the Papal Palace
The death of Pope Francis and the beginning of a new conclave coincided with the filming of the new season of CNN Travel & Gastronomy in Italy. After a few days in Rome, I decided to pop over to Castel Gandolfo to learn a little about papal life outside the Vatican.
The Papal Palace is the main attraction in the commune. The property covers 55 hectares, making it larger than the Vatican itself, the smallest country in the world , which has an area of 44 hectares. Previously under lock and key, the palace has been gradually revealed.
In 2014, the gardens were opened, and they remain splendid and well preserved in their classic Italian style, full of symmetry, terraces and fountains.
They are more than just pretty: history tells us that they were built on the ruins of Emperor Domitian's villa, taking us straight back to Roman times in the 1st century AD.
Then, in 2015, the Portrait Gallery was opened, one of the most important spaces for viewing the history of the papacy through the centuries. It is a collection of portraits of various popes, showing us, through their faces, the lineage of the leadership of the Catholic Church.
Inside the Pope's room Private chapel adjacent to the popes' bedroom • CNN Travel & Food
Today, in addition to these places, we can have a unique experience of walking through the papal apartments and even the private areas that were previously restricted to the clergy. The room where the popes slept is part of the visit: simple and functional, it accommodates a single bed, a desk and a wardrobe. Adjacent to the room there is also a private chapel and a library.
Interestingly, two popes died in this room: Pius XII in 1958 and Paul VI in 1978. The last pope to spend his holidays here was Benedict XVI, since Francis abdicated. And have you ever heard the expression “the pope’s babies”? It may have originated here, since around 40 children were born in this room, in the pope’s bed, during World War II.
Let me explain: during the bombings in 1944, the Pontifical Villas, which are part of the palace, were opened to house between 12 and 13 thousand displaced people. Thus, the place also carries a symbolism of hospitality.
After walking through the interior and exterior spaces, which are imbued with a serene soul, there is nothing better than being rewarded with a privileged view. This is because the palace faces Lake Albano , whose blue and emerald waters occupy a volcanic crater that borders the entire city. If you want to take a closer look inside the palace, press play on the video below:
There is a fee to enter the Papal Palace and gardens. Full-price tickets cost 12 euros (about R$78). Young people between 7 and 18 years old pay a reduced price of 5 euros (R$32) and children under 7 years old go free. Tickets can be purchased on the website .
But the curiosities don't end there. Interestingly, the Church has been a supporter of scientific advances since the 16th century. Proof of this is the Specola Vaticana , an astronomical observatory located within the complex. Previously, the observatory was located in the Vatican, but in the 1930s it was moved to Castel Gandolfo. The dome can be visited and has a separate ticket, with a full price of 8 euros (R$52) per person.
The Castelli Romani region
Castel Gandolfo is the heart of the Castelli Romani , a charming region that encompasses small towns and villages filled with medieval buildings. There is no set number of towns that make up the region, but they are located within a radius of 20 to 30 kilometers southeast of Rome, making it an ideal excuse for a day trip or a quiet weekend away from the capital.
In addition to a lot of history and slender landscapes, we are gifted with the gastronomic tradition of Lazio, which makes the most of antipasti, with pork sausages, beans with sausages and cheeses.
Here you can find the famous fraschette ( fraschetta , in the singular), which are old wine cellars where the owner served his own label with local dishes. Today the wine is still on the table, but the menu has expanded, as has the range of dishes on offer. However, the simple and unpretentious spirit remains.
Speaking of wine, Lazio is known for its fresh and aromatic whites, such as Frascati , which dates back to the Roman Empire – there is a village in the region with the same name. It is made mainly from Malvasia and Trebbiano grapes. But it is also worth trying the reds, with grapes such as Cesanese and Merlot, for example. They reflect the Roman heritage and the volcanic soil of the region, and go well with the local cuisine.
During my visit, I was enchanted by Castel Gandolfo, which is a tiny and powerful town, just like its neighbors. There is even a restaurant recommended by the Michelin Guide here, the Antico Ristorante Pagnanelli , which has been in operation since 1882 and has a privileged view of Lake Albano.
Daniela Filomeno at lunch at Hosteria Sora Lella, which serves traditional Italian pasta • CNN Travel & Gastronomy
It is also worth visiting the surrounding towns, such as the towns of Albano Laziale and Ariccia . The latter, in addition to the beautiful Piazza di Corte, in the European Baroque style, has a Michelin-starred restaurant , Sintesi , with à la carte and tasting menus that balance tradition and modernity.
But my choice for lunch was Hostaria da Sora Lella , with checkered tablecloth tables and super Italian recipes. To start, the menu has traditional porchetta from the city (common in the fraschette here), prosciutto, cured meats and sausages. Among the main dishes? Pasta alla matriciana, cacio e pepe, carbonara and since it was in season, I even topped it off with truffles. It couldn't get more Italian!
