Cocullo, the village suspended between faith, mystery and snakes

Nestled in the Abruzzo hinterland, between Marsica and the Peligna Valley, the medieval village of Cocullo reveals itself as a suspended place, where nature, history and folklore unite in an embrace. Walking among the stone houses and silent alleys means letting yourself be guided by suggestions that come from afar, from a collective memory in which the sacred and the pagan blend together in a surprising way.

It is no coincidence that Cocullo is known as “ the city of snakes ”, a definition that has its roots in ancient rites. In pre-Roman times, the goddess Angizia was venerated here, capable of dominating fire and snakes, and to whom healing powers linked to poison were attributed. When Christianity arrived, that cult did not disappear but was transformed. Around the 10th century, San Domenico arrived in the village and left as a gift the relic of the iron of his mule, as a symbol of protection from the bites of poisonous animals.

Every year, in May, Cocullo returns to tell the legend with the Festa dei Serpari , during which the statue of the saint is carried in procession covered in live snakes: it is an event that attracts thousands of visitors and makes the village unique in the world .

Where is Cocullo located?

In the mountainous heart of Abruzzo , among the greenery of the Rio Pezzana valley, Cocullo is located about 80 kilometers from L'Aquila, nestled in a land shaped by harsh landscapes, thick woods and profound silences.

The village stands in a strategic but secluded position, which has allowed it to maintain its identity intact over the centuries: the echo of past centuries is reflected in the stones of the houses, in the sculpted portals, in the bell towers that stand out against the sky.

What to see in Cocullo

The historic center of Cocullo is discovered step by step, without haste. The narrow cobbled streets, the stone stairways, the small shops tell an ancient story, marked by simple gestures and devotion.

The ancient heart of the village: Rione San Nicola

In the highest part of the town, here is the Rione San Nicola , where remains of the medieval walls and some of the ancient access gates are still visible: Porta Ruggeri , which takes its name from the feudal lords of Celano, Porta Renovata , which opens onto the southern valley, and Porta di Manno are like symbolic gateways that invite you to enter a different time.

Church of Maria delle Grazie: Faith and Art between the Middle Ages and the Baroque

In the heart of the village stands the Church of Maria delle Grazie , built in the 13th century on what was once perhaps a temple dedicated to Jupiter. The current appearance of the building is the result of centuries of renovations that have transformed it into a perfect synthesis between medieval rigor and baroque decorations. The façade, divided by three pilasters, houses a central rose window , an architrave carved with the Agnus Dei and two 16th-century statues kept in elegant aedicules.

Inside, the church has a single nave and preserves frescoes of great value , made in the sixteenth century, among which a Deposition and a Crucifixion stand out. Near the side entrance there is also a precious triptych depicting Saint Anthony, the Magdalene and Saint Amico, further evidence of the rich iconographic heritage of the village.

Medieval Tower and Church of San Nicola

Going up towards the end, you come across a stone tower built by the Lombards in the 12th century. It was originally a defensive structure, used for sighting, but over the centuries it was converted into a bell tower for the nearby Church of San Nicola . The tower is now surmounted by a bell chamber with mullioned windows , to which a civic clock was added in the 19th century.

The church, obtained by modifying the layout of an ancient castle, is a simple and solid construction. The austere façade contrasts with the interior, which opens into three naves covered by a barrel vault with lunettes.

Church of San Domenico: symbol of a unique devotion

But the spiritual heart of Cocullo is the Church of San Domenico , the saint who marked the history and identity of the village. Although the first traces of a religious building date back to the 16th century, the church we see today is the result of a 20th century reconstruction and stands out for its imposing drum dome and its bell tower with a pyramidal spire, elements that give it a solemn appearance.

The interior is simple but suggestive: a single nave with a semicircular apse, a central high altar and, on the right, a finely carved wooden pulpit. The real peculiarity, however, is the side chapel dedicated to San Domenico , where the bell of the teeth is kept, which the faithful pull with their mouths during the patronal feast as a sign of devotion and protection.

What to do in Cocullo: Experience the Magic of the Serpari Festival

There is one day a year when the silent village of Cocullo comes alive like never before, attracting the faithful, the curious, and travelers from all over Italy and beyond. It is May 1st , when a celebration as unusual as it is evocative takes place: the Festa dei Serpari , a one-of-a-kind rite, suspended between religion and paganism, tradition and mystery.

It all begins with the snake catchers, central figures of this tradition. They are men and women who, starting from March 19, dedicate themselves to catching snakes in the countryside around the village. These are non-poisonous species, which are handled with care and made harmless, not out of cruelty but out of respect and safety, in view of the ceremony. On the day of the festival, the reptiles become an integral part of the ritual.

The highlight is the procession that starts from the Church of San Domenico: the wooden statue of the saint, carried on the shoulders, is completely wrapped in live snakes , which coil around the body, the staff, and the face of the saint. It is an almost ancestral image, which recalls ancient cults and profound symbolism. The snake catchers follow the procession, also wrapped in snakes, in a procession that passes through the streets of the center.

The crowd gathers, not only to observe, but to participate: they buy laces, medals, rings, small amulets that are blessed and kept as good luck charms against the bites of rabid animals, but also against fears, illnesses and negative energies. It is a moment in which the community finds itself united, between spirituality and folklore, with an awareness that sinks into distant roots.

Because this celebration, in fact, does not originate with Christianity. Its origins date back much further, to a time when Angitia was celebrated, the goddess of snakes for the Marsi people, a mysterious and fascinating figure, guardian of healing knowledge and symbol of infinity, of the cyclical nature of life, of renewal. Angitia , Anagtia for the Samnites, Anaceta for the Peligni: different names for a shared, powerful, feminine archetype, capable of governing what scares and transforming it into strength.

How to reach Cocullo

Cocullo is easy to reach, both by car and by public transport. The village is located along the A25 Rome–Pescara motorway, with a dedicated exit at the “Cocullo” toll booth. From there, just a few kilometres along Via Santa Maria in Campo are the heart of the village.

If you start from L'Aquila , you simply need to first take the A24, then continue on the A25 towards Pescara, until the junction for Cocullo. Those arriving from Sulmona, instead, can choose the Strada Provinciale 51 del Sagittario, then the Statale 5, until you reach the motorway. The connections are also convenient from Rome, with a journey by car that takes less than two hours.

For those who prefer the train, the Cocullo train station is located about 2 kilometers from the historic center. It is part of the Sulmona–Avezzano–Pescara line and allows you to arrive also from cities such as Chieti, Ovindoli, Pratola Peligna. Alternatively, there are various bus lines that connect Cocullo to the main municipalities in the area, including Scanno, Anversa degli Abruzzi and Sulmona.