A Hansel and Gretel forest, a "museum where you eat," hot springs, and the riverfront: everything you need to know for a getaway to General Belgrano.

If I were to teleport and suddenly appear in this place, the sensation would surely be that of having entered another dimension , or better yet, a story, and I would not be surprised to come across gnomes hiding behind a tree or under the ivy, or to find Hansel and Gretel's chocolate house .

It is a forest and, just as a journalist named it several decades ago, it seems enchanted , with a very particular atmosphere and a special energy that you feel in your body. But it is not a corner of the Black Forest in Bavaria, but the old park of the Santa Narcisa ranch , 15 km from the town of General Belgrano , in the province of Buenos Aires, and 160 from the City of Buenos Aires, a green space that was designed by the famous French architect and landscaper Carlos Thays .

The ranch was expropriated in 1950, and by 1982 had fallen into disrepair , with much of the main building and stables gone . “The land, 5,000 hectares, was divided into plots and given to local people to work. 111 hectares around the main building were left over and transferred to the province of Buenos Aires ,” Matías Barbero of the General Belgrano Tourism Department tells me as we approach the giant eucalyptus tree.

In 1982, it became known that these lands were to be sold to relatives of the military, who were then in retirement. So the people and the town's institutions mobilized , held meetings and marches, surrounded the town hall, and even took it over one day to prevent the sale .

"The pressure and force exerted by the people was so great that the decision was finally reversed, and the lands remained in the hands of the province . Since then, every September 2nd, the ' pueblazo ,' the name given to this popular feat, is commemorated," says Matías.

The first thing done on the recovered lands was to create the first agricultural school (CEPT), a model school still attended by rural children from the surrounding area. The second was to generate a tourism and cultural project , for which the ranch house was restored and transformed into the Ranch Museum , where farm tools and equipment are exhibited.

When the park created by Thays was abandoned , an undergrowth of various plants and ivy developed , invading the land and giving it its distinctive, almost magical appearance today.

Amidst the tangle of vegetation, the 88 species of trees brought from Europe stand out, such as this giant eucalyptus , with a trunk so large that at least eight people are needed to hug it. “It's said that it comes from the seeds brought to the country by Sarmiento , who introduced the eucalyptus to Argentina,” says Matías as we pass by “the island,” a space that was originally surrounded by water and is now being restored.

We arrived at the ginkgo biloba tree , native to Asia and known as " the tree of life ," and Matías explains that this forest is special at any time of year; in summer because it's cool inside even at 35 degrees, and in autumn, because of the colors. "For example, there's a path of plane trees that turns all aglow in yellow; and when the ginkgo biloba tree's leaves fall, it forms an incredible golden carpet ," he describes.

At the entrance there is a stand that rents mate equipment and sells sandwiches, pizzas and drinks , run by Patrica and Roberto, Quilmeños who arrived in General Belgrano 14 years ago to set up some cabins in front of the thermal complex.

We left that fantastic dimension and, back in the real world, we took Route 41 to get to General Belgrano, straight to its history: the Alfredo Múngura Museum , on Larrea Avenue and in front of the old train station, which hasn't had any services for years.

“Alfredo Múngura was a local collector and researcher who opened the House of Memories in 1939 , with items he collected and later donated to the municipality, which created this museum in the building of the old El Cañón bakery ,” Maru Matos, head of the museum, tells me.

The space is divided into two parts: one exhibiting the objects donated by Múngura, and the other featuring themed rooms dedicated to the history of General Belgrano. The latter displays the original furnishings from the now legendary bakery.

Two blocks away, in front of the Inter-University Center, which occupies some railway sheds, is the old Cine-Teatro Español building , built by the Spanish Society in 1928 and which premieres films simultaneously with Buenos Aires: this June 6th there are Lilo & Stitch and the new Mission Impossible.

From there we go to El Almacén , a restaurant that is actually, as the sign at the entrance says, “a museum where you eat,” on the corner of 2 de Septiembre and Ayacucho, across from Plaza Alem.

There, in the building that originally housed the El Buen Gusto bar, Belgrano's first cinema operated , with films brought in on specific days and shown thanks to a generating group; later it became a brothel and then, between 1928 and 1930, a school.

Finally, in 1934, he opened a general store , delivering bread in old carts that are displayed on the sidewalk, under the name "La Porteña." In this historic building, former biochemist and politician Ricardo Buiraz created this restaurant , specializing in lamb casserole , a hearty dish for two (or even three). The lamb ravioli and spit-roasted lamb, the Sunday staples, are also worth mentioning.

“We recovered the warehouse building and opened this restaurant that pays homage to it, and where I display many of the knick-knacks I always loved collecting , plus many others that people donated and gave to me,” says Ricardo.

There are toys of all kinds, old advertisements, period furniture, old bottles and cans—all full, Ricardo explains—and some rarities like bottles from soda bottling plants that existed in Belgrano before 1930, an old box of homeopathic remedies with its small manual, and a device for killing lobsters.

The exhibition of the past continues in the beautiful outdoor space, which in summer functions as a beer garden with hamburgers, pizzas, specialty sandwiches, and is crowned with three impeccable cars: two 1929 Ford Model A and a 1925 Ford Model T , in addition to the reconstruction of a period barber shop - where it is impossible not to take photos - "in homage to the first barbers of Belgrano," Ricardo explains.

Next to the Enchanted Forest, we saw buildings that house an apiary belonging to the Ministry of Production of the province of Buenos Aires and which works exclusively with queen bees : research, study, and analysis of everything related to insemination methods and more.

It was my first contact with the honey from the area, which is famous.

The honey journey continues at Mieles Santos , a venture owned by Gustavo Gallegos and his family. His daughter Camila and his grandson, Santos, after whom the company was named, are also present there.

“Mieles Santos emerged from a need to add value to the final product and create a unique product,” says Gustavo, whose family has been dedicated to beekeeping since 1951.

And it presents the experience that visitors who come to the plant, in the Poggio neighborhood, can enjoy : it brings several jars and spoons and displays a tasting that goes from pure honey, without additives, to that which has a liquid texture but solid consistency, and the flavored ones, which are 18 : with chocolate, citrus, blueberry and raspberry or cinnamon, lemon pie, pink lemonade with mint, lemon, strawberry, orange and peach, citrus mix, blackberry or rosella, among others.

And also the raw ham one, and the gourmet one , which has chimichurri without oil or vinegar. Instead, it uses the ingredients of chimichurri —pepper, ground chili, paprika, etc. —with honey in the moist center . Spectacular. There are also three beehives where visitors can learn to be beekeepers for a while.

For 14 years, the city's main tourist attraction has been the Termas del Salado , located on the banks of the river and a few blocks from the center.

I am greeted by Oscar Ibarra, the company's administrator and representative, who tells me that the story goes back to 1965, when YPF drilled for oil and found "hot water" about a thousand meters deep.

In this century, a new borehole was drilled, and water was found at a depth of 980 meters. The Buenos Aires Province water authority took a sample and shortly afterward sent the results: high-quality thermal water , suitable for use in swimming pools. It also has muscle-relieving and relaxing properties , ideal for recovering from injuries and blows.

It springs up at a temperature of 41 degrees and is used to fill four pools : one covered, one circular, both at between 38 and 39 degrees ; another intermediate, with a slightly lower temperature; and a deeper one, which is rarely used in winter except by a few athletes, because it is very large and therefore colder.

Over croissants in the restaurant, Oscar explains that the complex also offers a recreational water park (in summer); restrooms, showers, and changing rooms; shared barbecue areas (free of charge) ; catering service; medical on-call with an ambulance; chiropractic; a maxi-kiosk; an ice cream parlor (in summer); bathrobe rentals; a locker; and a Terra spa with a variety of treatments .

Before or after the hot springs, a stroll along the Salado River waterfront is a must, as we are in the only city in the province located on the banks of one of its most important rivers . The beautiful, green waterfront features the Old and New spas, a 5-km stretch featuring a health trail , a rural bike circuit , a craft and food fair , soccer, volleyball, and basketball courts , the municipal Olympic swimming pool, as well as bicycle rentals and, for water sports, pedal boats, kayaks, and canoes . There is also a canoeing club and school.

We stopped for a moment to walk through the crafts fair, where several artisans displayed their creations. Like Hugo Fernández, a leather specialist, who makes everything from small keychains to wallets, knife holders, and the striking duck balls , the national sport widely played in this area.

Night falls when we arrive at the beautiful corner where Fabricio Peña set up his wine and gastronomy refuge, which he named Sonrisas Violetas (@sonrisasvioletas), a winery that specializes in particular labels from small wineries, the kind that can't be found everywhere .

“I always have something classic, but the idea is to present projects, smaller or lesser-known wineries, or non-traditional varieties,” says Fabricio as we climb the stairs to the mezzanine, where he hosts special dinners with step-by-step menus attended by people from the wineries whose wines accompany each dish.

And he serves us a red Aspirant Bouchet , “a red wine grape that was used to give color to blends and that Marylin García, from the 13 Clés winery, rescued to make a limited batch,” he explains.

Fabricio moves, travels, tastes wines, and brings back those he finds interesting. Everything in his menus is carefully thought out: the wine and the dishes, of course, but also the music, lighting, and setting , depending on the wine and food being served.

“It creates a very nice, relaxed atmosphere; people slow down, chat, and forget about their cell phones ,” he says. He even recently held a whiskey event , attended by the founders of La Alazana, the country's first single malt whiskey distillery located very close to El Bolsón , in Río Negro. The food, of course, was specially designed to pair with the whiskey .

A great epilogue to this visit to a surprising city, which step by step, treasure by treasure to discover, builds a great getaway, very close to the city .

● From CABA it is 154 km via Highway 2 to Puente Etcheverry, RP 215 h/ Brandsen and RP 29.

● Bus via Bariloche from Liniers (3 hours), $20,100.

● Don Luis Complex: Cabins for 2, $100,000 per night; for 4, $150,000; for 6, $200,000 (minimum stay: 2 nights in low season and 3 during winter or summer vacations). Access to three pools: one heated indoor pool, one heated indoor pool, and one seasonal pool (outdoor; @complejodonluis_gb).

● Municipal Campground: $6,000 per person + $6,000 for the pitch and $2,000 per vehicle or tent. Children under 5 years old, free. Day stay: $5,000 per person.

● El Almacén: Average cover, $23,000. Lamb casserole for two, $38,000. Open Friday nights, Saturday lunch and dinner, and Sunday and holiday lunches.

● Dinner with wine tasting at Sonrisa Violeta, $55,000.

● Hot Springs: general admission, $15,000; seniors, $12,000; children 3 to 12, $9,000; children under 3, free.