Once in a lifetime: Midnight paddling in the fjord

The sun gleams low over the sea as we push the kayaks into the water. A quick glance at the clock: 9:30 p.m. But it doesn't matter. Because we're on Senja, Norway's second-largest island, a good 300 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle. In summer, the sun doesn't set here for weeks. So you can sleep in, climb two mountains, and then go paddling in the evening. The perfect spot for this is the Bergsfjord on the north coast, which looks like an outstretched hand on the map. A reef shields the 15-kilometer-long and 280-meter-deep fjord from high waves, and small islands are scattered throughout.