Denmark | With Pyt and bike through Fjordlandet

An electric bike? At first glance, that doesn't really make sense in a predominantly flat country like Denmark. Or does it? We're on the Danish Baltic Sea island of Zealand, in the Fjordlandet region, which includes the Isefjord, Holbæk Fjord, Lammefjord, and Roskilde Fjord. And when we hear fjord, it all clicks. High mountains like those in Norway don't await us, especially at Roskilde Fjord. Instead, we find ourselves surrounded by rolling hills, moraines from the Ice Age that surround the narrow coastal lake. Nevertheless, an e-bike is worthwhile, we later discover for ourselves.

Roskilde, with almost 47,000 inhabitants, is the second-largest city on Zealand, about a half-hour drive from Copenhagen and known to many for its annual music festival. The Roskilde Fjord stretches over 40 kilometers with around 30 small islands and skerries. We explore the southern part between Frederikssund and Roskilde, which is part of the 170-square-kilometer Skjoldungernes Land National Park, Land of the Shield Boys: According to ancient legend, the descendants of the mythical King Skjold, a son of the god Odin, once lived here.

Kings and Vikings have left their mark on the national park. Cycling guide Henrik Stricker from Hedeland MTB Tours takes us there. Beforehand, there's a practice ride for e-bike beginners in the hotel parking lot in Roskilde. Aha, the trick is not to pedal too hard like you would on a "normal" bike, but lightly and with feeling so you don't rush off. The view of the cloudy summer sky prompted us to pack rain jackets in our backpacks. We're wearing bicycle helmets for safety, and Lina Holm-Jacobsen from the Danish Tourist Board shares a Danish tactic: "When something doesn't work out, we say 'Pyt!' and brush it off with a smile. It's a mixture of: Never mind, we keep going or forget about it!"

For now, the "Pyt!" (pronounced "Pütt") won't be used on our tour. Without incident, our guide Henrik leads us along the bike paths into the center of Roskilde to the cathedral. Sara Peuron-Berg waits in front of the gigantic structure and explains the most important facts about the UNESCO World Heritage Site: "The Gothic cathedral was built 800 years ago. It was originally Catholic. Since the Reformation in 1536, it has been Evangelical Lutheran." At least 40 rulers rest in the imposing royal burial church: from Queen Margaret I to Christian V to Christian III, Denmark's first Protestant king.

No one can ignore Roskilde, as Peuron-Berg describes it, "also because of the Vikings who traveled by sea. In the early Middle Ages, trade was often conducted by sea. Due to its location, Roskilde was one of the most important cities in Denmark, with the fjord as a connection to the outside world." Until 1443, it was the Danish capital and, before that, a royal city that protected Vikings from attackers.

The Norsemen are our next declared destination. We roll downhill to the Viking Ship Museum, right on the fjord. Blacksmiths hammer under the open sky, and ships sail into the harbor like they did in the old days. It feels like the Vikings lived between 790 and 1070 AD. Orlando West, who studies prehistory, leads us to five reconstructed original sailing ships in the museum: "In 1060, they were sunk with stones in Roskilde Fjord to block the entrance to enemy ships. The remains were excavated in 1962."

There were 200 to 300 such ships that sailed as far as Iceland or North America. We won't get that far today, but we set sail on the Roskilde Fjord, rowing hard in a replica Viking ship. It starts to rain. Wrapped in our jackets, we don't let it spoil our good mood, dodging the canvas sail with our heads, sometimes left, sometimes right. The rain lashes our faces. Seagulls fly overhead, ducks swim beside us, the water gurgles against the wooden railing. An indescribably beautiful feeling of freedom. Soaked to the skin, but pumped full of dancing happiness, we arrive back in Roskilde harbor an hour later. The rain promptly stops. Unbelievable, but – pyt!

We switch to our electric bikes and ride the Panorama Route out of Roskilde. It's 29 kilometers long and leads along the fjord through forests, idyllic villages, farmland, and meadows, right through the Skjoldungernes Land National Park. We learn more about it from park guide Mikkel Eeg a few days later when we hike with him from the museum in Lejre, where Odin, the father of the gods, stands as a sculpture, to a stone ship.

Lejre was a royal seat for more than 500 years during the Viking and early Iron Ages, explains Mikkel, and leads us past grazing cows to a meadow scattered with massive stones. "This is the former stone ship, a kind of church. Graves of noble Vikings with gifts and their slaves have been found here." He then shows us the floor plans of a royal hall in another meadow. It's hard to imagine what the imposing residences of the kings looked like in real life. Visitors can walk through a replica royal hall on the Ice Age hills in "Sagnlandet Lejre" (Land of Legends).

But back to the bike tour along the Roskilde Fjord. On the Panorama Route, we reach the "St. Hans Have Café." Fruit and vegetables have been grown in the adjoining historic garden for over 200 years, reveals director Tina Unger: "As long as the psychiatric hospital in St. Hans has existed." We wander through the berry, fruit, tea, and health gardens, and for lunch, we enjoy ratatouille made from regional and home-made ingredients, fresh sourdough bread, and homemade mayonnaise. Chef Iben has prepared a meal for us in one of the café's greenhouses. With the climbing vines above us, it feels as if we're sitting in the middle of nature. Hygge!

The next cycling stage begins flatly, with Roskilde Fjord beside us and within reach, until the vast expanse of land gives way to forest. Uneven forest floor and small inclines await us. The panoramic route through this glacial landscape narrows to a dirt path that leads downhill and over a small wooden bridge. Beyond this, it becomes sandy, winding, and slippery. Phew, that was a good turn! Or rather, Pyt! The fresh forest air is good for the lungs, and the lush green of the beech trees in the Boserup Forest is good for the eyes. The view from the mini-cliff over Kattinge Vig Bay with its deserted sandy beach tops it all off.

The forest thins, and we cycle above the fjord. In the distance, horses graze by the water, the wind blows across the land and around our noses. There's no sign of a sea eagle. Instead, the rain starts again, and we pedal quickly to Herslev near Lejre.

Pyt, pyt, pyt! The chilly wetness is forgotten within minutes as the hot coffee steams before us. With that, Isabel Hansen welcomes us to the small "Herslev Bryggeri," which opened in 2004. For three years, the Nuremberg native has been responsible for tours, events, and the dining room, having previously worked as a school principal in the area for 20 years. "We produce a million liters of beer a year," she says as she leads us through the brewery. "That's what Carlsberg produces in a day."

Sales are made in the farm shop and to customers in Copenhagen, including Michelin-starred restaurants. "We brew from malted barley from our own fields and experiment with flavorful seasonal produce: rose hips, quinces, and asparagus." Hay beer, apple beer, Christmas beer, and even beers with aromas of cocoa, coffee, and a hint of licorice are on offer. We enjoy sampling them in the "Øl & Mad" dining room, which exudes a bright, industrial charm. The asparagus beer is exceptional, and quince is our favorite.

The dining room fills with strikingly well-dressed people. Are they all coming from their yachts, or are they from the 100-person village of Herslev? "Most are from out of town and take the bus from Roskilde Station," says Hansen. "We invite everyone for an after-work beer on the first Friday of the month, and for a meal on the last Friday of the month." Sometimes there are also concerts, like today.

We've explored and experienced enough for today. Tomorrow, we'll head to the small, wild natural gem of Møllekrogen – with Selsø Castle on the Hornsherred peninsula near Skibby. After 150 years of slumber, it has been largely renovated and is now open as a museum and classical concert venue. After our visit there, we'll stop by Hansen's Ice Cream Parlor in Jägerspris. Denmark's oldest organic ice cream shop is more than 100 years old and serves the finest ice cream flavors. Inspired by these views, we cycle back to Roskilde – in the romantic evening light (the sun has even come out by now) and without having to pedal too hard, thanks to our e-bikes and a "Pyt!" in the back of our minds.

The trip was supported by Visit Denmark and Destination Sjælland .